Our National Parks
Call them Alberta's A-list. In movie terms, they're our blockbusters, our mega crowd pleasers . . . the ones that lure millions of visitors to gawk at their grandeur, their rugged wilderness, their endless wildlife. We're talking about Alberta's five national parks. But Albertans aren't the only ones who recognize these treasures. Just ask the UNESCO World Heritage committee and they'll tell you why three of Alberta's five UNESCO sites are national parks.Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks
UNESCO has lumped them altogether; well, seven of them that straddle Alberta and British Columbia, and cover about 22,986 sq km (8,875 sq mi). There's no question our Rockies pack a punch— with scores of summits topping 3,080 m (10,000 ft)— but here's what UNESCO says: “The Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks contain outstanding examples representing major stages of Earth's history...outstanding examples representing significant on-going ecological and biological processes...and superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty.”
Alberta's claim to UNESCO fame includes the Rocky Mountain parks of Banff and Jasper. These national beauties, along with Waterton Lakes are Alberta's highlight reel of pure Canadiana: snow-kissed mountains, tumbling glaciers, slot canyons, turquoise lakes, towering forests, the Columbia Icefield, twisted rock columns called hoodoos, roaring waterfalls, the Continental Divide, Mounties, railroads, picturesque townsites and historic chateau-style hotels.
#1: Banff National Park
This jewel has seduced visitors for a very long time—at least since 1885, the year Banff became Canada's first national park, two years after Canadian Pacific Railroad workers found a natural hot spring curling out of the rocks while building the transcontinental railroad.
Population of Banff townsite: Some 8,100 permanent residents. Banff was the first Canadian municipality incorporated into a national park, which attracts some 3.1 million visitors a year (69 per cent visit the townsite).
What's in a Name? The town of Banff is named after Banffshire, Scotland, the birthplace of two major financiers of the Canadian Pacific Railway.
Where the locals hang: The Rose & Crown, a neighbourhood pub on Banff Avenue, is an established local tradition, as is St. James' Gate. Banff is also loaded with excellent restaurants from four-diamond AAA/CAA high-end joints like the Eden and the Banffshire Club to more casual spots like Saltlik, Typhoon, Café Soleil and the old Mexican favourite, Magpie and Stump.
Picture Yourself Here: Few sights are as memorable as the “Castle in the Rockies,” the gothic 120 year-old Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. Or, take a dip where it all began, the Banff Upper Hot Springs. Be sure to poke around the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies, the Cave and Basin and the Banff Park Museum.
A uniquely Canadian activity: Mountie-spotting. You can regularly spy a real-live Royal Canadian Mounted Police officer in full regalia somewhere on the streets of Banff, the No. 1 photo op.
#2: Jasper National Park
Established in 1907, Jasper is the largest and most northerly national park in the Canadian Rockies—10,878 sq km (4,200 sq mi) of rugged wilderness—with an extensive system of backcountry trails and healthy populations of some of our rarest wildlife including grizzly bears, wolves and caribou. Jasper townsite is the jumping-off point for countless outdoor activities from canoeing and kayaking to backcountry hiking and camping, fishing, horseback riding, snowshoeing, nordic and alpine skiing. Surrounded by a necklace of emerald lakes and majestic waterfalls, the townsite offers accommodations ranging from quaint bungalow cabins to luxurious resorts.
Location: Jasper is 362 km (220 mi) west of Edmonton; 414 km (248 mi) north of Calgary.
Population: About 4,300 permanent residents, which doubles in the summer.
What's in a Name? In 1813, the North West Company built a supply depot on Brule Lake, which became known as Jasper House after NWC clerk Jasper Hawes.
Where the Locals Hang: The Athabasca Hotel has been a local Jasper favourite for casual drinks or dinner since opening its doors in 1929. You'll also find locals at the Whistlestop Pub (in Whistlers Inn) and the De'd Dog (in the Astoria). For prime rib, book a table at Tonquin Prime Rib Village; for sea food, chow down at the Caledonia Grill and cheesy pizza is best at the Jasper Pizza Place.
Picture Yourself Here: A great photo opportunity in Jasper is to pose beside the 8 foot-tall sculpture of Jasper the Bear with the Canadian Rockies in the background, then hustle down to the Bear's Paw for a morning cuppa.
A Uniquely Canadian Activity: At the Columbia Icefield, you can ride a specially designed glacier bus called the “Ice Explorer” onto the belly of the massive Athabasca glacier that spans 388 sq km (150 sq mi). Or, for something completely offbeat go scuba diving in Patricia Lake (on the skirts of Jasper townsite), in search of an ice barge that Winston Churchill commissioned in WW II with the thought that planes could land and refuel here. His vision, so to speak, tanked.
#3: Waterton Lakes National Park
Established in 1913, Canada's fourth national park, Waterton Lakes is the smallest in the collection—at approximately 505 sq km (195 sq mi). Because several ecosystems overlap in the Waterton Lakes area, the park embraces 45 different habitats resulting in an astonishing diversity of plant and animal species, some of which exist nowhere else in Western Canada. "It is exceptionally rich in plant and mammal species as well as prairie, forest, and alpine and glacial features,” reports UNESCO.
Picture snow-capped mountains, steep canyons, excellent hiking loops, rushing streams, flowering meadows, the picturesque town of Waterton on the shores of the deepest lake in the Canadian Rockies (Upper Waterton Lake), and you've got the Banff of 50 years ago. Encompassing one of the narrowest areas of the Rocky Mountains and some of the most ancient ranges, it is often referred to as “where the mountains meet the prairies.” Climb to the top of Bear’s Hump Trail for the view and you'll understand why.
Location: Three hours drive southwest of Calgary.
Population: Winter residents top out at 55. In the summer those numbers total a few hundred.
What's in a Name? The Waterton chain of lakes was named by Lieutenant Blakiston, in honour of British naturalist Squire Charles Waterton.
Local Watering Hole: Wolf's Den Lounge, in Waterton Lakes Lodge, offers locally brewed beer and a decent selection of liquor and wines. Ram's Head Lounge in the Kilmorey Lodge and Pizza Waterton are other top picks.
Picture Yourself Here: Sipping high tea at one of the most photographed hotels in the world, the majestic Prince of Wales Hotel, perched high on a bluff overlooking one of Alberta's windsurfing capitals, Waterton Lake, with a view all the way to Montana.
A Uniquely Canadian Activity: The canoe virtually defined Canadian travel for centuries, and you can rent one to ply the waters of Waterton or Cameron Lake. Hikers in search of best views should hike 700 metres (about 2,000 ft.) to the top of the emerald oasis of Crypt Lake. Campers love the Bertha Lake campsite, tucked into a hanging valley and wrapped in a lush forest.
#4: Wood Buffalo National Park
Wood Buffalo could swallow up the entire country of Switzerland. Yes, this is Canada's biggest national park and one of the largest in the world. Some 45,000 sq km (17,300 sq mi) in size, this park includes huge tracts of boreal forest and plains, and some of the largest undisturbed grass and sedge meadows left on the continent. In fact, it's those very meadows that sustain the largest free-roaming herd of wood bison (about 5,600) in the world.Established in 1922 to protect the last remaining herds of bison in northern Canada, Wood Buffalo today protects Canada's northern boreal plains, diverse ecosystems—that include unique salt plains— the last remaining natural nesting area for the endangered whooping crane, and a wealth of traditional Aboriginal activities.
Location: Of all of Alberta's national parks this is the toughest to get to. Most visitors come by car en route to the Northwest Territories. Road trippers drive southeast from Hay River to the border town of Fort Smith, also the park entrance. Your other option is to fly from Edmonton or Fort McMurray to Fort Smith.
Population: There are a few small communities in the park that total about 300 individuals. Fort Smith has a population of about 2,600.
What's in a Name? In this case the name reflects the animals this park was created to protect: wood buffalo, and that was back in 1922.
Local Watering Hole: Want nightlife? Go to Alberta's other national parks. Crave solitude on a rugged hike where you might see bison, black bears, and lynx , you've come to the right piece of Canada's wilderness as this is as wild as it gets. Feel intimidated? Use this guide as a starter for wildlife viewing.
Picture Yourself Here: On a vast salt plain staring up at the Northern Lights, twisting and shimmying across an enormous sky. All in the middle of a boreal forest. As though the Earth leaked, you'll find trails and fields of salt while hiking through this park of surprises. There are sinkholes, caves, underground rivers and lovely Grosbeak Lake. Visitors can also view this park from on high—a number of tour operators offers floatplane trips out of Fort Chip.
# 5: Elk Island National Park
Elk Island, established in 1913, protects one of the most endangered habitats in Canada—the fragile aspen parkland. This park has been dubbed the “Serengeti” of Alberta for good reason. No other park in Alberta guarantees such wildlife sitings, from free roaming plains bison and wood bison to moose, deer, and elk. It's also a birder's paradise with recordings of more than 250 species of birds.
Its cultural history dates back to the receding of the glaciers. There are more than 200 prehistoric aboriginal camping and stone tool making sites as well as 13 non-native heritage sites.
GIven the proximity of the park to Edmonton, many city dwellers cross-country ski here in the winter months and enjoy a day hike or a round of golf in the summer. For a longer stay, accommodations and amenities are available in and around the park.
Location: Less than an hour's drive east of Edmonton on the Yellowhead Highway, en route to another all-star attraction, the Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Centre.
Population: About 12 residents live here full-time, which speaks to the ruggedness of this vast canadian wilderness.
What's in a Name? Over one hundred years ago, a group of ranchers discovered a small herd of elk in this area. Wanting to preserve this herd, they petitioned the federal government, came up with a $5,000 bond that created a sanctuary which later became this national park.
Local Watering Hole: Like Wood Buffalo, you don't come to this wedge of wilderness to party. Here, recreation consists of 90 km of trails (for hiking, biking and cross-country skiing), a nine-hole golf course, and picnic areas. The park also features several lakes which are ideal for short canoe trips. Accommodations can be found in and around the park.
Picture Yourself Here: Falling asleep to coyotes trying to out-howl the wolves, while camping at one of the park's two campgrounds. When you wake up be sure to poke your head out of your tent gingerly—you could be nose to nose with a free-roaming bison or an elk.
