It started with the howling and jumping and straining. That’s what got me going. You put 42 let’s-get-this-show-on-the-road sled dogs together on a Canadian Rockies mountainside, poised to do what they do best, run with snow flying from their heels as they tow sleds loaded with awe-struck people, and you feel the collective yearning of their urge to pull as it rises in a wild, keening whine. It’s nature’s jet engine churning raw fuel, kicked up and revving to go.
Stand in the midst of it, that just-before-departing shrieking and pawing and barking, and it climbs up from your toes and into your chest, like the stadium roar seconds before the puck drops in a high stakes pro-hockey game or the geared-up honk of geese veering high overhead as you look up and your breath clouds, and you are inexplicably and powerfully grabbed and carried to some quintessentially Canadian experience that is, I expect, bred in the bone.
Okay, so maybe it was almost mystical for me. For others, it might just be a walk, well, a tour in the park. But I can tell you this: getting pulled by beautiful dogs that race with hearts pounding through pristine mountain wilderness on a flawless day, well, for me, it’s an honour. Gee, can you tell I’m a dog lover? Give dog sledding a try and see if you don’t become a fan.
Unleash the Musher
Howling Dog Tours is on the doorstep of Banff National Park (an hour west of Calgary) in the mountain resort town of Canmore. Rich and Dana Bittner have more than 10 years in the business and began their dog mushing careers on the sprint racing circuit in Western Canada. They’ve competed in races that run from four to 150 miles, from B.C. to Manitoba to NWT. Rich is getting ready to race in Yellowknife, and as he gestured to his dogs and trailers and guides and sleds like a ring master in the centre of his well organized winter circus, he proudly likened his business to “a private jet with everything you need, not a charter; we do it to the max.”
“You can do as much as you want or as little as you want; get your hands on the dogs and or just enjoy them from nearby,” he said.
During the two hour ‘Unleash the Musher’ tour that I tried, along with clients from around the world, I got an honest-to-goodness Canadian snack break (beef jerky, dried fruits, hot chocolate and more) while at the lip of frozen Spray Lake, and an interpretive talk about local wilderness conservation that made me appreciate our parks system even more. More importantly, I got a great guide named Chris McKenna, who’s widely trained in outdoors recreation and shows respect and devotion to the dogs and mountain living. Guides can make or break a tour, regardless of what activity you’re trying, and I can attest that McKenna is among the best.
Different Strokes for Different Sleds
So what’s it all about? You have the option of bundling beneath a heap of blankets while your guide steers the dog sled along a groomed track. Or you can stand on the back runners and give it an I-am-Spartacus try yourself. I did both, hunkered for part of the trip beneath blankets. The rasp of the runners on the snow and the gentle, side-to-side lurch of the sled and the up and down bobbing of the sled’s prow, kind of like the rhythm of a kayak against small waves, at times almost hastened sleep. But when I got on the back with Chris and he showed me how to balance on one of the runners, I curled my fingers around the tubing that rises up and around the rear of the sled, and it was almost like surfing. To get a feel for it, take a look at this Howling Dog Tours video.
You’ll become accustomed to the guide’s shouts and commands and encouragements to the dogs, and you’ll likely want to speak to the dogs yourself during the ride and during breaks. Getting to know the dogs, you can pet them and feed them and even harness them, as I did, is a great part of this experience. Each dog has a distinct personality (Howling Dog has more than 200 dogs) and they are all exceedingly friendly. The two rear dogs in our team, the newly acquired Little Miss on her inaugural run and the wily veteran King, were responsive and endearing during the typical 10 kilometre tour.
There were many families on the tour when I went on it, as well as romantic couples. I plan to return there with my wife, who loves dogs and would really enjoy the outing. And you can combine your dog sledding adventure with show shoeing, ice canyon walking or many other activities. Aside from the two hour tour, Howling Dog Tours offers a half day adventure, among others.
Choices, Choices . . .
Keep in mind that there are other dog sled outfitters and guides throughout the province, including Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tours. (I have met owner Connie Arsenault and she runs a great operation) and Mad Dogs & Englishmen out of Canmore.
Klondike Ventures out of Rocky Mountain House has over 40 years of experience in providing outdoor adventures. And Crazy Dog Sled Tours offers dog sled tours in the southern Rockies near the Pincher Creek/Crowsnest Pass region.
You can also experience dog sledding outside the Jasper National Park boundaries with various outfitters.
