Big Thrills on Snowy Hills, Part l
Face it. Isn't it high time you answered the siren call of the ultimate winter destination and took a ski vacation in the Canadian Rockies?
Part l of our feature series takes you on a journey to two of Alberta’s six legendary resorts: Sunshine Village and Lake Louise. Besides schussing down thigh-throbbing slopes we hang with the locals and give you the skinny on the whole ski holiday—the goods on what's new, good spots to bunk, a bit of history, lift rates and more. Be sure to read Part II and Part III for the scoop on Marmot Basin, Castle Mountain, Ski Banff @ Norquay and Nakiska.
Big Picture: The $300 log cabin, built high in the Canadian Rockies some 70 odd years ago at the base of Sunshine Village, remains as a reminder of the resort’s storied past. Today, what sits next to it is the Sunshine Inn, staff accommodation, high speed quads, a gondola station and the same unparalleled views that drew the Brewster clan to this area in the 1930s.
Back then Brewster Transportation carried skiers from the town of Banff to Sulphur Mountain in a Model A Ford. Passengers then climbed onto horses near the present Cave & Basin site and rode through Sunshine Canyon to within a kilometer of the cabin. The final leg was on skis or showshoes while dragging sleds loaded with gear. After such an epic, it’s no wonder visitors stayed for a week! These days, getting to Sunshine Village is considerably easier—it’s a 90 minute drive west of Calgary, followed by the world’s fastest high speed, 8 passenger gondola ride.
Sunshine Village is a destination ski resort, meaning you can stay right on the hill at Sunshine Inn, the only slopeside accommodation in Banff National Park. Most of the 84 rooms at the lodge have been recently renovated at a price tag of $30,000 a room. Each now brags of a private balcony, new beds, flat screen TVs, stonework on the walls, new bathrooms and more storage area. Value season, when these lovely rooms and suites are discounted, begins mid November and runs until just before Christmas, then again for most of January and May.
Bragging Rights: Sunshine gets more snow than any other Alberta resort, up to a fluffy 9 meters (27 ft) a year. It also has one of the longest seasons, mid November through May, plus it straddles the Continental Divide, meaning you can ski in two provinces in one day. On a clear day you can see for 50 km (35 mi) and the views of Mount Assiniboine (Canada’s equivalent of the Matterhorn) are unparalleled, especially from your private balcony in the new Goat's Eye suite.
Toughest Runs: Up until now it's been Delirium Dive, which is an off-piste area requiring a transceiver, shovel, probe and a
good set of lungs. Take Angel lift, then the Divide and start climbing—it’s about a 40 m (120 ft) hike beyond. Once you’re in this stunning area veer right to reach the run called Milky Way. Other good thigh burners are the Galaxy chutes and Bre-X.
Easiest Run: Dell Valley, off Strawberry chair. This short little green run is perfect for beginners.
What's New: The new Wild West area, left side of Goat’s Eye, was known until now as the toughest terrain on the mountain. But this year's addition of Silver City Extreme, loaded with steep bumps, chutes and cliffs, has some people saying it's tough enough to make Delirium Dive look like a green!
Where the Locals Hang: Too many people still think you have to stay at Sunshine Inn to bask in a chair on the outdoor deck of the bar called the The Chimney Corner. Everyone is welcome. While you’re there, split a humongous platter of the cheesiest nachos—one of the best on this side of the Divide. Then head over to the Mad Trapper, the other place locals hang, in the old dark Sunshine Day Lodge. It’s smokey, has a floor full of peanuts and is always packed, one reason they recently expanded it. If you stay in Banff the range of restaurants is massive—from high-end spots like the Maple Leaf Grill, Fuze, Le Beaujolais, Eden and the Banffshire Club to the ever popular Giorgio’s, Cafe Soleil, Typhoon, the Grizzly House, Saltlik or Ticino’s (for fondue). Families can head to the Spaghetti Factory and Earls.
Cost of a Lift Ticket: If you don’t have a Sunshine discount card be sure to check for the latest rates and deals on lift tickets.
For the Non-skier: Stay in Banff where there are plenty of shops, restaurants, museums and galleries. Non-skiing outdoor activities abound, including ice skating, snowshoeing, canyon ice walks, sleigh rides and more.
Freebies: Get a free 90 minute tour of the mountain with a qualified snow host at 10:30 a.m. and 1 p.m.
Local Wisdom: The ultimate time to ski Sunshine’s steeps is two days after a big dump. The day after is usually spent on avalanche control and blasting.
Big Picture: Lake Louise has been an icon in the Canadian Rockies for decades, but you’ll find a new look and lots of new terrain to explore if you haven’t tackled its slopes in a while. The 2005 addition of a high speed six passenger gondola, called The Grizzly, (which replaced the Friendly Giant chair) has cut down the wait enormously, now it’s only six minutes to the backside. For a sense of history be sure to rove around Temple Lodge, on the backside of the mountain, where you’ll find lots of black and white archival photos of folks in tweedy knickers skiing in this neck of the woods. They were shot back in the late ’20s and ’30s, as hardy skiers blazed trails into the backcountry. If it’s a backcountry experience you want you can ski into a rustic heritage property known as Skoki Lodge, from the backside of this resort. It’s a charmer and ideal for cross-country and telemark skiers, part of the reason it was voted one of the Top 10 backcountry lodges in all of North America by National Geographic Adventure .
Bragging Rights: Continually ranked by Ski Magazine as the most scenic resort in North America, the front side mountain affords spectacular vistas including Lake Louise, Victoria Glacier and Temple Mountain. Ski Louise is consistently chosen to host the World Cup men's Downhill and Super-G races at the end of November, and the women's races follow the next weekend. The ski resort's daycare facilities also take infants as young as 18 days old.
Toughest Run: With 30 per cent of its terrain ranked expert/extreme, it's tough to get consensus on which is toughest. Your biggest challenges will come on the backside, either in the Ptarmigan/Paradise area (The Equalizer, Mindbender, Paradise Cornice) or the Back Bowls area (North Cornice or Wild Gully). For a wild mogul ride, check out Paradise Bowl and some runs off Larch.
Easiest Run: Wiwaxy. Your first stop after the bunny hill is long, wide and gentle enough that even first timers won't be intimidated. Meadowlark is another long, easy glide from the top, but the beauty of Louise is that rookies can access beginner runs from every chair. Nobody gets bored at this hill.
What's New: Besides the new multi-million dollar gondola, crews have continued to upgrade snowmaking facilities with energy efficient nozzles and pumps that allegedly will create more amounts of drier powder-like snow. New Snow Cats have been purchased, as well.
Where the Locals Hang: When on the hill, the beautiful log Lodge of the Ten Peaks is a popular spot to rest up and refuel, or to wind up the day. If you've decided to sit the day out, the country's second largest log building is a great place to wait for your pals—find a corner upstairs in the Powder Keg or next to the mammoth rock fireplace and curl up with a good book. Good people watching, too. For sun worshippers, grab a sugary Beaver Tail and a cuppa and slink back on the big deck at the base of mountain at the Kokanee Cabin. In town, Laggan's in the tiny Samson Mall is a popular bakery/deli with hearty, stick-to-your-ribs cookies, muffins and lunch fixings.
Hottest Bar or Nightclub: There's something wonderfully unglitzy about the town of Lake Louise, so for flat out glamour and a
variety you'll have to go to Banff. However, don’t be duped by the tiny size of Lake Louise. You’ll find dancing at the countrified Glacier Saloon in the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise as well as a number of comfy cocktail lounges. Plus, the Walliser Stube is still the après ski spot which yodels alpine charm and sizzles with a dozen main course fondues. The classic European style Post Hotel also has a lovely bar, new spa and excellent restaurant. And next door is Canada's No. 1 rated hostel, equipped with an affordable restaurant, fireplaces, kitchen facilities and licensed café.
For the Non-skier: So much to do, so little time...once again you can grab a java and perch yourself in a sun trap at the base of Showtime Terrain Park (an easy walk from the Lodge) and watch some remarkable stunts, likely being performed by the same gang of crazy locals who starred in the 2004 Warren Miller movie, Impact, which gathered lots of footage from here. Then again, the pretty town of Lake Louise is a mere five minute drive away. And just beyond that, up the twisted hill, lies the world renowned and historic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.
We recommend a skate on the lake or sleigh ride followed by a steaming mug of cocoa at one of the Chateau's lovely lounges, then a browse through the boutiques at the hotel. Many of the area's hotels offer shuttle services to the hill. However, the town of Banff is loaded with more options for non-skiers including high-end boutiques, spas, nightclubs and more. And between Lake Louise and Banff is Johnston Canyon where you can join a naturalist for a tour called the Ice Walk. For the ultimate treat, spend a day at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise's newly expanded spa or the brand new one in the Post Hotel.
Lift Tickets: You’ll find current details on lift tickets and rates as well as the goods on season passes plus multi-day and multi-area passes which are also available at early bird rates. An RCR Super Pass (access to the Lake, Nakiska, Kimberley and Fernie) is $2909 for a family pass, $1249 for an adult pass. The Super Pass offers numerous benefits including retail and hotel discounts as well as savings off summer products such as golf and 2 for 1 summer lift rides. Also look for the Canadian Rockies Louise Card priced at $69.95 (on sale until December 26) which gives you the first, fourth and seventh day free skiing at Louise plus daily discounts throughout the season.
Where to Bunk: The options are plentiful, but one place you can’t stay is on the hill. Nonetheless, a good mix of budget inns, cabins, hotels and luxury resorts are five minutes away in the townsite, with even more options in Banff or Canmore. Many hotels provide a shuttle service to the ski hill. Both Banff and Lake Louise have lovely international hostels that boast log cabin décor that is rustic yet civilized.
Local Wisdom: Go to the backside for a good hit of afternoon sun, or stay on the front side where it's shadier but less crowded. Nab some lunch or a mid afternoon snack at the Whitehorn Lodge or on the backside at the hill's No. 1 charmer, Temple Lodge— but consider yourself warned, the view may keep you lingering for a while.
Part l of our feature series takes you on a journey to two of Alberta’s six legendary resorts: Sunshine Village and Lake Louise. Besides schussing down thigh-throbbing slopes we hang with the locals and give you the skinny on the whole ski holiday—the goods on what's new, good spots to bunk, a bit of history, lift rates and more. Be sure to read Part II and Part III for the scoop on Marmot Basin, Castle Mountain, Ski Banff @ Norquay and Nakiska.
Sunshine Village
Big Picture: The $300 log cabin, built high in the Canadian Rockies some 70 odd years ago at the base of Sunshine Village, remains as a reminder of the resort’s storied past. Today, what sits next to it is the Sunshine Inn, staff accommodation, high speed quads, a gondola station and the same unparalleled views that drew the Brewster clan to this area in the 1930s. Back then Brewster Transportation carried skiers from the town of Banff to Sulphur Mountain in a Model A Ford. Passengers then climbed onto horses near the present Cave & Basin site and rode through Sunshine Canyon to within a kilometer of the cabin. The final leg was on skis or showshoes while dragging sleds loaded with gear. After such an epic, it’s no wonder visitors stayed for a week! These days, getting to Sunshine Village is considerably easier—it’s a 90 minute drive west of Calgary, followed by the world’s fastest high speed, 8 passenger gondola ride.
Sunshine Village is a destination ski resort, meaning you can stay right on the hill at Sunshine Inn, the only slopeside accommodation in Banff National Park. Most of the 84 rooms at the lodge have been recently renovated at a price tag of $30,000 a room. Each now brags of a private balcony, new beds, flat screen TVs, stonework on the walls, new bathrooms and more storage area. Value season, when these lovely rooms and suites are discounted, begins mid November and runs until just before Christmas, then again for most of January and May.
Bragging Rights: Sunshine gets more snow than any other Alberta resort, up to a fluffy 9 meters (27 ft) a year. It also has one of the longest seasons, mid November through May, plus it straddles the Continental Divide, meaning you can ski in two provinces in one day. On a clear day you can see for 50 km (35 mi) and the views of Mount Assiniboine (Canada’s equivalent of the Matterhorn) are unparalleled, especially from your private balcony in the new Goat's Eye suite.
Toughest Runs: Up until now it's been Delirium Dive, which is an off-piste area requiring a transceiver, shovel, probe and a
good set of lungs. Take Angel lift, then the Divide and start climbing—it’s about a 40 m (120 ft) hike beyond. Once you’re in this stunning area veer right to reach the run called Milky Way. Other good thigh burners are the Galaxy chutes and Bre-X. Easiest Run: Dell Valley, off Strawberry chair. This short little green run is perfect for beginners.
What's New: The new Wild West area, left side of Goat’s Eye, was known until now as the toughest terrain on the mountain. But this year's addition of Silver City Extreme, loaded with steep bumps, chutes and cliffs, has some people saying it's tough enough to make Delirium Dive look like a green!
Where the Locals Hang: Too many people still think you have to stay at Sunshine Inn to bask in a chair on the outdoor deck of the bar called the The Chimney Corner. Everyone is welcome. While you’re there, split a humongous platter of the cheesiest nachos—one of the best on this side of the Divide. Then head over to the Mad Trapper, the other place locals hang, in the old dark Sunshine Day Lodge. It’s smokey, has a floor full of peanuts and is always packed, one reason they recently expanded it. If you stay in Banff the range of restaurants is massive—from high-end spots like the Maple Leaf Grill, Fuze, Le Beaujolais, Eden and the Banffshire Club to the ever popular Giorgio’s, Cafe Soleil, Typhoon, the Grizzly House, Saltlik or Ticino’s (for fondue). Families can head to the Spaghetti Factory and Earls.
Cost of a Lift Ticket: If you don’t have a Sunshine discount card be sure to check for the latest rates and deals on lift tickets.
For the Non-skier: Stay in Banff where there are plenty of shops, restaurants, museums and galleries. Non-skiing outdoor activities abound, including ice skating, snowshoeing, canyon ice walks, sleigh rides and more.
Freebies: Get a free 90 minute tour of the mountain with a qualified snow host at 10:30 a.m. and 1 p.m.
Local Wisdom: The ultimate time to ski Sunshine’s steeps is two days after a big dump. The day after is usually spent on avalanche control and blasting.
- The classic ski-out is the longest run on the mountain, 8 kms from the village to the parking lot, but avoid this if you’re a boarder, it’s loaded with lots of long, slow/flat stretches.
- Buy a Sunshine/Marmot card for less than $75. This gives you several days for free at Sunshine Village plus you save about $13 off any lift ticket all season long, as well as about $26 off lift tickets during double discount days (Nov. and May). This card often knocks 50 per cent off lift rates at places like Canada Olympic Park, Castle Mt. and Edmonton's Rabbit Hill Ski Club. They’re available online, at ski shops and often at Safeway stores (starting mid October). Also, if you want to check out the snow conditions in the middle of the night, go online where you’ll find 24/7 ski cam coverage (check out their latest ski cam, perched on top of Angel's High Speed quad chair, and look for great shots of Mt. Assiniboine).
- To maximize your day on the slopes move around the area in the opposite direction of everyone else. This means ski Goat’s Eye first (a 10 min. ride up the gondola) and then pound out as many runs as you can, head up the Divide by mid-afternoon and you’ll see the place clears out by 2:30 p.m. because that’s when everyone heads to Goat’s Eye.
Lake Louise
Big Picture: Lake Louise has been an icon in the Canadian Rockies for decades, but you’ll find a new look and lots of new terrain to explore if you haven’t tackled its slopes in a while. The 2005 addition of a high speed six passenger gondola, called The Grizzly, (which replaced the Friendly Giant chair) has cut down the wait enormously, now it’s only six minutes to the backside. For a sense of history be sure to rove around Temple Lodge, on the backside of the mountain, where you’ll find lots of black and white archival photos of folks in tweedy knickers skiing in this neck of the woods. They were shot back in the late ’20s and ’30s, as hardy skiers blazed trails into the backcountry. If it’s a backcountry experience you want you can ski into a rustic heritage property known as Skoki Lodge, from the backside of this resort. It’s a charmer and ideal for cross-country and telemark skiers, part of the reason it was voted one of the Top 10 backcountry lodges in all of North America by National Geographic Adventure .Bragging Rights: Continually ranked by Ski Magazine as the most scenic resort in North America, the front side mountain affords spectacular vistas including Lake Louise, Victoria Glacier and Temple Mountain. Ski Louise is consistently chosen to host the World Cup men's Downhill and Super-G races at the end of November, and the women's races follow the next weekend. The ski resort's daycare facilities also take infants as young as 18 days old.
Toughest Run: With 30 per cent of its terrain ranked expert/extreme, it's tough to get consensus on which is toughest. Your biggest challenges will come on the backside, either in the Ptarmigan/Paradise area (The Equalizer, Mindbender, Paradise Cornice) or the Back Bowls area (North Cornice or Wild Gully). For a wild mogul ride, check out Paradise Bowl and some runs off Larch.
Easiest Run: Wiwaxy. Your first stop after the bunny hill is long, wide and gentle enough that even first timers won't be intimidated. Meadowlark is another long, easy glide from the top, but the beauty of Louise is that rookies can access beginner runs from every chair. Nobody gets bored at this hill.
What's New: Besides the new multi-million dollar gondola, crews have continued to upgrade snowmaking facilities with energy efficient nozzles and pumps that allegedly will create more amounts of drier powder-like snow. New Snow Cats have been purchased, as well.
Where the Locals Hang: When on the hill, the beautiful log Lodge of the Ten Peaks is a popular spot to rest up and refuel, or to wind up the day. If you've decided to sit the day out, the country's second largest log building is a great place to wait for your pals—find a corner upstairs in the Powder Keg or next to the mammoth rock fireplace and curl up with a good book. Good people watching, too. For sun worshippers, grab a sugary Beaver Tail and a cuppa and slink back on the big deck at the base of mountain at the Kokanee Cabin. In town, Laggan's in the tiny Samson Mall is a popular bakery/deli with hearty, stick-to-your-ribs cookies, muffins and lunch fixings.
Hottest Bar or Nightclub: There's something wonderfully unglitzy about the town of Lake Louise, so for flat out glamour and a
variety you'll have to go to Banff. However, don’t be duped by the tiny size of Lake Louise. You’ll find dancing at the countrified Glacier Saloon in the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise as well as a number of comfy cocktail lounges. Plus, the Walliser Stube is still the après ski spot which yodels alpine charm and sizzles with a dozen main course fondues. The classic European style Post Hotel also has a lovely bar, new spa and excellent restaurant. And next door is Canada's No. 1 rated hostel, equipped with an affordable restaurant, fireplaces, kitchen facilities and licensed café.For the Non-skier: So much to do, so little time...once again you can grab a java and perch yourself in a sun trap at the base of Showtime Terrain Park (an easy walk from the Lodge) and watch some remarkable stunts, likely being performed by the same gang of crazy locals who starred in the 2004 Warren Miller movie, Impact, which gathered lots of footage from here. Then again, the pretty town of Lake Louise is a mere five minute drive away. And just beyond that, up the twisted hill, lies the world renowned and historic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise.
We recommend a skate on the lake or sleigh ride followed by a steaming mug of cocoa at one of the Chateau's lovely lounges, then a browse through the boutiques at the hotel. Many of the area's hotels offer shuttle services to the hill. However, the town of Banff is loaded with more options for non-skiers including high-end boutiques, spas, nightclubs and more. And between Lake Louise and Banff is Johnston Canyon where you can join a naturalist for a tour called the Ice Walk. For the ultimate treat, spend a day at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise's newly expanded spa or the brand new one in the Post Hotel.
Lift Tickets: You’ll find current details on lift tickets and rates as well as the goods on season passes plus multi-day and multi-area passes which are also available at early bird rates. An RCR Super Pass (access to the Lake, Nakiska, Kimberley and Fernie) is $2909 for a family pass, $1249 for an adult pass. The Super Pass offers numerous benefits including retail and hotel discounts as well as savings off summer products such as golf and 2 for 1 summer lift rides. Also look for the Canadian Rockies Louise Card priced at $69.95 (on sale until December 26) which gives you the first, fourth and seventh day free skiing at Louise plus daily discounts throughout the season.
Where to Bunk: The options are plentiful, but one place you can’t stay is on the hill. Nonetheless, a good mix of budget inns, cabins, hotels and luxury resorts are five minutes away in the townsite, with even more options in Banff or Canmore. Many hotels provide a shuttle service to the ski hill. Both Banff and Lake Louise have lovely international hostels that boast log cabin décor that is rustic yet civilized.
Local Wisdom: Go to the backside for a good hit of afternoon sun, or stay on the front side where it's shadier but less crowded. Nab some lunch or a mid afternoon snack at the Whitehorn Lodge or on the backside at the hill's No. 1 charmer, Temple Lodge— but consider yourself warned, the view may keep you lingering for a while.
