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The Island Way
The Island Way
by Charles Mandel
Once you've let our beautiful beaches knock you out, allow our lively culture to wake you up. Welcome to
Prince Edward Island, where we've refined the art of entertaining over four generations of ceilidhs and kitchen parties.
After a day in the sun, head out for a night of theatre. Or combine a cross-country trip with craft shop visits,
noticing how the Island's artists draw their palette from the same vivid blue sky, sparkling water, red clay roads and
green hills that you see as you drive.
The Island may be small, but it's packed with history: from First Nations, to the first Acadians, to the
Fathers of Confederation. That's not to say the Island isn't for the young at heart. Contemporary art, current
attractions, up-to-the-minute cuisine, modern music and friendly festivals all await you on the Island. When the lights
go down, the fun begins. From the main stage of the Confederation Centre
of the Arts, to the charming community theatres of Victoria-by-the-Sea
and Georgetown, prepare for laughter, drama, music and
storytelling. Summer evenings in downtown Charlottetown,
the curtain rises on one of Canada's most beloved musicals, Anne
of Green Gables™. The story of the mischievous, red-haired orphan with the plucky personality has entranced and
entertained audiences for over 40 years. Home of the Charlottetown
Festival, the Confederation Centre of the Arts hosts more than
Anne™; some of Canada's best musical theatre is staged at the centre every year, including such classics as Johnny Belinda
and Swing. For a more intimate experience, spend an evening in Victoria-by-the-Sea,
perhaps stopping for dinner at the Landmark
Café before taking in a show at the Victoria
Playhouse, the Island's longest-running little theatre and one The New York Times called "a hidden gem." The
Island offers shows for every taste, from sketch comedy to tickle your funny bone, to theatre-in-the-park, a summer
favourite under balmy blue skies.
You'll come away singing the praises of our musicians. In
Indian River, the spectacular
interior of the more than a century-old St. Mary's Church rings with the sound of chamber music, jazz, Celtic,
contemporary and choral concerts. Outside, under the stars, Rollo Bay's bluegrass festival will make you kick up your
heels, while for sheer variety nothing matches Late Night at the Mack in downtown Charlottetown. Once a week, musicians,
singers and dancers from the main stage musicals at the Confederation
Centre get together at the Mack–as the cozy theatre is fondly known–and strut their stuff.
Check out the Rendez-vous Rustico Festival for a rollicking good time as the Acadian community gathers and celebrates their heritage with well-known singer-songwriter Lennie Gallant. For authentic Celtic music, roll into Summerside where all summer long Highland dancing, step dancing, fiddling and, of course, bagpiping put a spring into your step. Still not what you're looking for? A number of Charlottetown night spots resonate with alternative sounds, while ceilidhs are almost as common as lupins. Watch for a brand-new festival of Island culture in October–music, arts and cuisine will be highlighted at this province-wide event.
Canada's Birthplace, the Cradle of Confederation, no matter what you call it–to stand outside Province House National Historic Site is to feel the sweep of history. Here in the Confederation Chamber in 1864 is where our founding fathers hammered out the details of the Charlottetown Conference, forming the beginnings of what would become Canada. Today, the building is still host to history in the making: down the hall PEI's 27-member provincial legislature continues to form provincial policy. Outside, on the streets of Charlottetown, the Confederation Players make history come alive as they act out historic vignettes and debate the merits of the union. Further along the waterfront, Founders' Hall combines history and high technology, using interactive displays to tell the story of our country. On Canada Day the snap and crackle of fireworks light up the night air as we celebrate Confederation. And in fall the Festival of the Fathers recalls PEI's Victorian era with military displays, and heritage walking tours. The Island's heritage encompasses more than the Charlottetown Conference, of course.
Old Home Week and the PEI Provincial Exhibition and dozens of country fairs such as the PEI Plowing Match and Agricultural Fair in Dundas celebrate the Island's pioneer history. To learn more about PEI's First Peoples, venture out to Lennox Island, where the Minegoo Café serves traditional Mi'kmaq dishes and the 10-kilometre Path of our Forefathers combines shoreline views with cultural interpretation of the land and its people.
Beginning in late spring when the lobster boats haul in their first catch, through the summer when the blueberries and raspberries ripen, and into the fall when Island producers put their bounty on display in farmers' markets, eating well is part of Island life.
Long known as the million-acre farm, PEI is world-renowned for its potatoes, which are especially good in the summer when they are newly dug from the ground. But don't neglect the other vegetables Island farmers produce such as sweet corn and crunchy green beans. These veggies and other fine local produce make their way to markets such as the Charlottetown Farmers' Market, the Evangeline Farmers' Market and Jewell's Country Market. U picks are another way to enjoy the Island's agricultural heritage: strawberries in summer, apples in fall.
It should come as no surprise that all of that fresh produce ends up on the menu. With fabulous restaurants from end to end, you'd be hard-pressed to visit all the Island's great eateries, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't try. Eating on the Island is often an experience all on its own, where going out for dinner can mean anything from a sophisticated dinner at a country inn overlooking the water, to a casual deck table in the fresh, salt air at a fish & chips shack.
Be sure to tie on a bib and visit one of the many lobster suppers across PEI and for a full-on celebration of the crustacean be prepared to take in the annual Prince Edward Island International Shellfish Festival. There you can sample the Island's world-famous blue mussels and watch chefs from across North America compete for the title of top shucker using PEI's famous Malpeque, oysters treasured for their briny flavour. But save room for the seafood chowder contest as chefs vie for another title with fresh clams and Island potatoes.
No foodie's tour of the Island is complete without a stop at the Rossignol Estate Winery, where next to a splendid view of the Northumberland Strait, you can sample locally produced vintages.
Like paint on a particularly bright canvas, PEI's vibrant visual artists dot the Island. Painters, potters, and other artists are often where you least expect them: off a country road or down a clay lane. Off the beaten path, they have time to soak in their surroundings, absorb the serenity and reflect it in the paintings and crafts they create. Painter Tony Diodati's Art Gallery, for instance, looks out over the fishing village of French River and New London Bay, images that find their way into his water-colours, acrylics and oils. The Dunes Studio Gallery and Café near Brackley Beach features fine art and contemporary crafts from all across the Island.
In fall, it all comes together during the Studio Tour Rally Weekend, when over 40 Island galleries and studios open their doors to the public. The Island's culture also finds its way into artists' imagery. Lennox Island's Indian Art & Craft of North America holds many examples of traditional Aboriginal artwork, while The Abram-Village Handcraft Co-op shows a selections of weaving, quilts, woodwork and Acadian shirts.
Or step back in time and discover the culture of previous generations, reflected in the Island's many attractions and museums. The history of inshore fishing comes to life at Basin Head Fisheries Museum, while the Greenwich Interpretation Centre in Prince Edward Island National Park boasts a state-of-the-art complex that sheds light on one of Canada's most unique eco-systems.
For something completely different, make your way over to the Elmira Railway Museum & Miniature Railway, where you'll find not only one of Canada's largest model railway collections, but also a working miniature railroad. At Orwell Historic Village, a pioneer village of the 1890s comes to life and at the nearby Sir Andrew Macphail Homestead a restored 1850s house and garden transports you back to another era.
It's hard to believe such a small place could be packed with so much culture, but then the Island wasn't settled yesterday. Over the generations, and on its own, PEI's artistic, performing arts, and literary traditions have had time to evolve and mature. From our cuisine, which draws on the Island's agricultural heritage, to the unique sensibilities of our contemporary sketch comedians, the Island's cultural legacy and landscape informs and guides our modern-day arts. To taste our food, visit our farmer's markets, stop by our galleries, see our plays or artworks, and hear our literary works is to take home a little piece of our Island. Long after you've left, it will remain with you.
