The March West

Diary of Commissioner George Arthur French

SEPTEMBER:

Tuesday, 1st ---Started about 7 a.m., and made about 10 miles. Made about 6 miles more in the afternoon, and, finding good grass, water and wood, halted although it was only 4 p.m. A very large camp of Indians had been at this place for a considerable time, probably three or four hundred lodges.

Wednesday, 2nd ---Started about 7 a.m. When out about two hours rode up to the advance guard, and observed some moving objects near the left flankers, rode out there, flankers thought they were ponies. On going a little further I felt certain they were buffaloes. Presently they began running, leaving no doubt in the matter. I took a carbine from one of the men, and made after them, headed them and turned them towards the train, fired at one which dropped back, and was despatched by some one else; three went across the creek, I went after them, and was joined by the Scout Morreau and Levallee, we each shot one, I fired into the Scout’s buffalo as he stood at bay, and dropped him. This was a very fine beast about 10 years old; he made, when dressed, 953 lbs. ration meat.

Thursday, 3rd ---Left at 7 a.m. I find that although 1720 lbs. of ration meat were issued yesterday, from the two buffaloes which had cut up, there is nothing to shew for three others which had been killed, the half-breeds merely cutting slices of the meat off, and carrying it along. Jullien ran a buffalo, and killed him. I came in for the finish, had the beast cut up, and brought in on an ox cart. The men having plenty of meat, I had this fellow cut up, placed in one of the water barrels and well salted. The salt we had carried so far now comes in useful. There being no grass had to make a stretch of 17 ½ miles without halting. Next stage 20 miles no water.

Friday, 4th ---Left at 5 a.m. made a stretch of 15 miles, a number of coules to be crossed, halted in a wide coule in afternoon, made a march of 5 miles, and camped in a deep ravine, had to lock the waggons going down. Employed an officer and 25 men in cutting down the bad places to allow our passing up to-morrow morning. Seven Sioux came into camp this evening. It appears they were with some half-breeds when our advanced guard passed, and seeing no carts they put us down as Blackfeet. After passing they crept up a ravine till they crossed our trail, they caught up with the rear guard about 2 p.m., and as a precautionary measure loaded their guns. Our people seeing this extended in skirmishing order, but a Sioux who could speak French came forward unarmed and explained matters. We gave them some tea, buffalo meat, biscuits and ammunition, which apparently much pleased them. A few small presents go a long way in showing the Indians that we came as friends.

Saturday, 5th ---Left at 5 a.m., and had all hands at work to help the waggons up the hill. An ox and two carts fell over the edge of the Ravine. Fortunately, but little damage was done to ox or loads. Halted at a coule, little water or grass. Our guide knows the road no further, and we are in the hands of Morreau, the Scout, whose reputation is doubtful; however, having kept a careful record of the angles and distances since leaving the B.C. road, on the 3rd August last, and this checked by observations for latitude and magnetic variation will enable me to keep a close check on him. If Palliser’s map is correct, (which it is certainly not in some places), we are now 83 miles from the Forks of the Bow and Belly rivers and 18 miles north. I shot a buffalo in the afternoon; it was properly cut up, and the meat brought in.

Sunday, 6th ---Started at 2:30 p.m. to get pasture, which the Scout reported five miles ahead, he brought us a very northerly course. I objected to halt in the coule which he pointed out as there was no grass there, sent him on to another one about 1 1/2 miles, when he returned, and had the assurance to state it was the Belly River, and that we were at our journey’s end, and that the Bow River was just a mile down. I told him we were at least 70 miles from Bow River, and asked him to show me Bow River, and on going to the place indicated, found it was merely a turn of the river. We have in fact struck the South Saskatchewan half a day sooner than I expected, but an error of 8 or 10 miles in Palliser’s map is a trifle. The Scout insists that the Forks are 12 miles north. I took it as a special dispensation of Providence, my having kept a careful record of the angles and distances since we left the B.C. road. There is not a soul in camp that knows this place, and the Scout has brought us nearly a day’s march out of our road during the last two days, and he would make it still worse to-morrow. I am not quite certain whether his actions are due to ignorance or design. He is the greatest liar I have ever met. He is suspected as being a spy of the whoop up villains, but there is nothing definite or tangible to show this. Although I have never been here I will do the guide myself to-morrow. If I could have relied on Palliser’s map, I would have taken this duty sooner.

Monday, 7th ---Left at 5 a.m. Finding fair grass about 4 1/2 miles out, stopped to feed horses and cattle. The buffaloes hitherto shot have been bulls, but to-day a large herd, containing a number of cows and calves, ran close to the line of the march, about 10 of them were killed. No grass or water, had liquid mud for tea. All day to-day kept on a ridge from 2 to 3 miles from the river, and thereby avoided crossing a number of short deep coules flowing into the Saskatchewan. Found coal on river bank.

Tuesday, 8th ---Started about 6 a.m. Sent back for a horse that was too weak to reach camp, but had to leave him. No grass or water to signify. Camped on the edge of a deep coule close to the river. Cold rain and heavy wind set in from the north west about 10 p.m.

Wednesday, 9th ---Let out the horses at daylight to endeavour to pick up a little grass. No feed, horses running about to try and keep themselves warm. Sent the horses into the ravine for water, and to be out of the wind. Rain being over at 10 a.m., and there being no food, I started off. 5 of the horses paralyzed from cold and hunger, and could not get out of the ravine; 3 others little better, the 5 died in a few hours. Left a party behind to bring on the other horses. Camped near Sand Hills, after crossing a ridge from which we saw the “Trois Buttes”.

Thursday, 10th ---A horse of “B” Troop left behind last night died, one of “F” Troop also died. I had a blanket taken from every officer and man last night, so that each horse was covered and protected from the cold rain and wind, which set in about 9 p.m. I begin to feel very much alarmed for the safety of the Force. If a few hours’ cold rain kills off a number of horses, what would be the effect of a 24 hours’ snow storm. On the 20th September last year there was a three days’ snow storm in the district between the Cypress Hills, Wood Mountains and Old Wife’s Creek; I cannot possibly get back there till the first week in October. If I could get 5 or 6 tons of hay cut to bring along in our waggons to meet such a difficulty, I would feel more at ease, but the buffalo have scarcely left a blade of grass over 3 inches in length. Made 7 miles, but had to halt as the rear guard was delayed several hours owing to Mr. B. Not having obeyed my positive order with reference to a horse left behind close to last night’s camping ground. A river runs into the Saskatchewan. I am doubtful whether it may not be the Bow River; have sent, both there and 10 miles west, to explore. The party gone west report the river narrow. The other party not in, probably lost their way.

Friday, 11th ---This party did lose their way, but they saw a rocket we sent up, and got in about 11 p.m. last night. There can be little doubt but that it is the Bow River. We went north this morning to find a crossing on the Belly River, but after losing much time, we were unable to find one. Worked west for 5 or 6 miles along the river, and finding a little grass in a coule halted there. Horses starving, the oats just keep them up.

Saturday, 12th ---Camped on the Belly River. Conferred with the Assistant Commisioner and the Inspectors as to the present aspect of affairs. There was but one opinion regarding the portion of the Force going back, viz., that it should return forthwith. All feel satisfied that it would be impossible to take the stores through to Edmonton, owing to the condition of the horses. A post on this part of the Bow River or Belly River is out of the question, as there is neither grass or wood here, and not much wood apparently on Bow River near the junction. The Sweet Grass Hills or West Butte, near Boundary Line, promises well for a post: good grass, good wood and water, and only about 80 miles from Benton, an important point as we will have to obtain our provisions there in any case. I understand that the whiskey traders are not here now, but are about Benton, and propose remaining there till the Force returns east. A post at or near the Boundary Line will spoil their little game. The Fort! ! ! at the Forks of the Bow and Belly Rivers turns out to be three log huts without roofs in which some fellows occasionally stopped when trapping or rather poisoning wolves. I have sent out a party to explore for the Fort, 15 miles from the Forks, but as there is no trail in the vicinity, I doubt their finding it. “The Forts” are apparently log shanties, in which trappers or traders pass the winter, and they are usually burnt down when they leave, as was the case with the one in the Cypress Hills, where the Assiniboines were murdered in the spring of 1873. Although most of the ruffians were murderers from Benton, “Whoop Up”, as far as I can understand, is the only Fort which has a local habitation as well as a name. It is principally a trading post of the firm of Baker & Co. of Benton, highly respectable merchants who do not sell whiskey or spirits. The only actual indication of whiskey trading as yet discovered is the head of a cask with Kelly, Bourbon, printed thereon, found on the beach, the first doubtless distiller of the Bourbon whiskey. I have sent a party 20 miles west to find the “Whoop Up” road, said to exist about here. There is no doubt a large trail; in fact, a well travelled road passes north by the Porcupine Hills, but this is too far off for us to touch now. Our guide Morreau says that “Whoop Up” is only 40 miles off, but he is such an out and out liar, and hitherto has proved so utterly useless as a guide that no one believes him.

Sunday, 13th ---Welch returned this morn. He says he was about 30 miles west, found no signs of a road, not a blade of grass to be seen, buffalo moving south in thousands. Moved camp about 2 miles west to change feeding ground, if nibbling on a bare plain can be called feeding. Denny’s party not back yet. Two men after buffalo were lost, fired rockets after them.
771 1/2 miles
Add 10 miles to above, viz., 2 1/2 per c. on 400 10
871 1/2 miles

Monday, 14th ---Two men came in, also Sergeant Lake. Two out of the three horses paralyzed by cold and hunger died, making 9 horses killed in 36 hours from this cause. A good many in camp look as if they have not much longer to live. Denny’s party not in. I must leave this p.m., and strike south. Ice on water last night. Left a little after 4 p.m. Very anxious about Denny’s party, and fear they may have come to mischief. When marching off observed what might be buffalo or Indians. After some time, to my great delight, made them out to be Denny’s party. Mr. Levallee states that it would be almost impossible to take horses through, that we would certainly lose most of them. He has been up the Bow River for 70 or 80 miles. There is neither wood or grass. Country very rough to make a road through, and bad hills ahead. Although I had sent Inspector Walsh with 70 men and 58 horses across the river, en route to Edmonton, I am compelled to counterorder it, and instruct him to follow up the main Force to the West Butte, near the Boundary Commission road, and pick up any played out horses or oxen that we may leave behind. Oxen starving now. The horses can pick up a little of the grass left by the buffalo, but the poor oxen cannot do this. On following up the Force, overtook an ox-waggon, 3 miles out, completely played out. Carvell and I put our horses in, and took it on to Camp. 5 oxen unable to reach Camp. Denny’s party met a large war party of Assiniboine Indians, who would not let them approach.

The NWMP crossing Belly River, September 14th, 1874

Tueday, 15th ---Sent a half-breed and one of our men back to Cripple Camp at Old Wife’s Creek with instructions to the constable there to send as much oats and hay as possible across to the B.C. Road to meet us. 3 of the 5 oxen had to be left behind. Halted when 6 miles out at a lake about 3 miles long and 1/4 wide. As I was the first to see it, and as it is not shewn on any map, proposed to call it ‘Commissioner’s Lake”. The half-breeds christened it, by piling up a heap of stones on the bank, and firing a salute of 14 rounds, shouting “Hurrah for le Colonel” at each discharge. Had to leave 5 oxen behind here. As there is little grass and plenty of water, I hope Walsh will be able to bring them along. I have instructed him to detail a rear guard, to follow slowly, and bring along everything left behind. Marched in afternoon over a plateau bare as usual. Buffalo in every direction. Centre Butte and West Butte showing up well in our front.

Wednesday, 16th ---Started at 7 a.m. Grass very poor. Water mere mud trampled into paste by the buffalo. Oxen playing out still.

Thursday, 17th ---Left at 5 a.m. before breakfast, made 8 miles, halting in valley of river, probably Milk River. Wind north with rain very cold. Started at 4 p.m., and camped behind a ridge. Drew up the waggons in two lines, tents touching each other, and in front of waggons, thus breaking the force of the wind almost altogther. Corralled the horses behind the waggons, and blanketed them, fed with oats, taking a blanket from every man. 3 horses dropped down on the road, and another after reaching Camp, their famished frames having no power to resist the cold.

Friday, 18th ---Left at 8 a.m. Snow on the Buttes ahead. Saw the Rocky Mountains to the westward from a ridge, about 10 miles from West Butte. Camped in a coule close to the West Butte. Had to leave all the oxen 4 miles in rear, being too weak to come thus far. Found coal in coule.

Saturday, 19th ---Remain at same place, water being good. Grass tolerable. Started our forge with the coal thus opportunely found. Sent Macleod and a guide out at 8 a.m. to look for the Boundary Commission road or monuments. By noon observation I fancy we are 6 1/2 miles north of Boundary Line. Prospected around and found some good specimens of coal and iron ore.

Sunday, 20th ---Remain at same place, horses very weak. Walsh rejoined us with his party, reports having lost 6 horses out of his 57. One of his men was lost for several days, and a party sent back by him managed to get a horse, lost or stolen more likely. Went out with Macleod and Levallee to look for B.C. depot, found it to the West Butte. Rode over 30 miles.

Dead Horse Valley

Monday, 21st ----Making arrangements for departure of “D” and “E” Troops. Left in afternoon with D and E troops. Struck Boundary road about 7 miles south, moved east along it for a mile, and camped on coule. Excellent feed for horses and cattle. Quite a treat to see the poor beasts get a good meal at last.

Tuesday, 22nd ---Left the two troops in charge of Carvell with instructions to move slowly, halting wherever there was good feed, and to meet me at a lake 8 miles N.E. from crossing of Milk River. Started for Benton with Macleod and party of 8 others to communicate with Government and obtain supplies. Rapid travelling with empty carts. Made about 42 miles.

Wednesday, 23rd ---Saw immense quantities of buffalo, estimated at 70 or 80 thousand by Macleod and I. Road very crooked; but little water. Kept going until 10:30 p.m., making about 522 miles.

Thursday, 24th ---Started early. Crossed the Maria River and the Teton 11 times, reaching Benton about noon. Gave out that I wanted to purchase horses, inquiring as to prices of stores, & c.

Friday, 25th ---Purchased some moccasins, boots, stockings, gloves, & c., for the men and some corn and oats for the horses. Bought 15 horses. Left one with Macleod. Prices generally very low. Obtained full particulars as to the murders at the Cypress Hills. Bought a waggon and double set of harness to assist in carrying out supplies.

Saturday 26th ---Started at noon, rather a poor start, half-breeds suffering from the extra stock of liquor laid in. Some horses baulky. One of them broke the pole of the waggon, had to camp and send back for another.

Sunday, 27th ---A good deal of trouble getting up hill with horses. I have only three half- breeds, a guide, a drover, 2 men and myself to manage everything. I drove the waggon, purchased two more new horses on the road. We now have 4 carts, one waggon and 31 horses to look after, our hands are full. Kept going until 10:30 p.m., made about 33 miles.

Monday, 28th ---Kept going ahead all day. Made about 25 miles. Good deal of trouble hoppling, unhoppling and harnessing with so few men. In assisting with waggon got pulled off my horse, falling on my shoulder and thereby knocking me off the effective list, - a matter of some moment when we are so short handed.

Tuesday, 29th ---Sighted the Milk River shortly after starting. About 5 p.m. came across a party of Assiniboines on foot, they said they were going to steal hoses from the Blackfeet. Gave then some coffee and some biscuits. Two of them had Henry rifles. Crossed Milk River and met our people at lake N.E. 8 miles therefrom. The following distances were travelled by the main body after my leaving it for Benton, viz:
22nd....................................10 1/2 miles
23rd.....................................14 1/2 “
24th.....................................21 3/4 “
25th.....................................22 1/2 “

Wednesday, 30th --- French led “D” and “E” Troops back east, eventually establishing the first headquarters of the Force at Swan River, Manitoba.

Macleod led “B”, “C” and “F” Troops north to Fort Whoop Up at the junction of the Belly and St. Mary rivers. There they found that the whiskey traders had learned of the mounted police’s approach and had gone out of business. They then went on further westward and built Fort Macleod, becoming the first fortified presence of the Force on the frontier.

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