Sveti-Tskhoveli Cathedral in Mtskheta. (Vawn Himmelsbach)

Vawn Himmelsbach is a freelance writer based in Toronto. She has spent years travelling abroad, often adventuring off the beaten path alone.

When I told people I was going backpacking through Georgia – the country, not the American state – most responded with a look of confusion.

After explaining that it used to be part of the former Soviet Union, they just looked more confused. After all, few Canadians have even heard of this country, let alone travelled there for fun – in fact, Georgia has a reputation for being dangerous. It’s not entirely fair, but it’s an understandable assumption, considering the country’s tumultuous history.

Georgia is one of the Caucasus countries, along with Azerbaijan and Armenia, and is sometimes referred to as part of Europe. Or the Middle East. Or Central Asia.

A cave monastery at Davit Gareja. (Vawn Himmelsbach)

Its strategic location – Russia to the north, Turkey to the south and the Black Sea to the west – has resulted in land grabs over the years from the Mongols, the Byzantine Empire and Persia, and even Russia under Catherine the Great.

After WWI, the Red Army moved in, and more than 100,000 Georgians were sent to Siberia under Stalin (who, ironically, was a Georgian himself). After a long Soviet occupation, Georgia became an independent republic in 1991, but suffered from crime waves and corruption – not to mention internal conflict from the Russian-supported breakaway regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia.

The Rose Revolution of 2003 brought about a new presidency, along with Russian and American intervention, but even today Georgia’s relationship with Russia remains tense. Georgia borders Chechnya, and Russia has been known on occasion to fly into Georgian territory and bomb a village, claiming Chechen rebels are taking refuge there.

This may leave you wondering why you’d want to travel to Georgia. But this tumultuous history – past and present – is its big draw, and many areas of the country are relatively safe.

A view of Azerbaijan from Davit Gareja. (Vawn Himmelsbach)

The country is steeped in history, with its own distinct culture, language and cuisine – not to mention possibly the oldest winemaking tradition in Europe (the Georgian word for wine is gvino). Once there, you’ll probably wonder why you haven’t heard more about this country.

Logistical challenges

What makes travel in Georgia such a pleasure – but also a challenge – is that there’s not much in the way of backpacker infrastructure in place. Little English is spoken outside the capital, so a phrasebook is a necessity – and knowing a little Russian can help too.

The country is dotted with ancient cathedrals, monasteries, castles and forts, many still in excellent condition, but you’ll rarely see a hawker. The few you will see are usually elderly women knitting brightly coloured wool socks, which they sell at roadside stalls.

You will, however, probably bump into a few tour groups on pilgrimages from Europe, the U.S. or Israel, since many of these sites have religious significance.

The Ananuri Fortress. (Vawn Himmelsbach)

In the capital, Tbilisi, don’t miss the hilltop Narikala Fortress, which offers impressive views of this medieval city. It’s also worth wandering through the streets of the Old Town, then soaking in the Tbilisi sulphur baths.

Nearby Mtskheta, the old capital and a Unesco World Heritage site with some of the country’s oldest churches, is a quick taxi ride away.

In the south, bordering Azerbaijan, is Davit Gareja, a complex of 19 cave monasteries built by Syrian monks in the 6th century. After climbing a steep hill, follow the path that takes you past monasteries built into caves (many with intact frescoes), looking out over Azerbaijan. You can do this as a day trip from Tbilisi, which requires a long drive through the barren Georgian desert. Hire a private taxi or take a marshrutka (a public mini-van – not terribly comfortable, but cheap) to Gardabani and catch a taxi from there. There are no shops or hawkers in the area, so bring lots of water with you.

To the north, bordering Russia, you’ll enter the Caucasus Mountains, where you can catch a glimpse of the snowy peaks of Mt. Kazbek. Most backpackers come here to climb up to the remote Tsminda Sameba church on a hill overlooking the village of Kazbegi. For the hardier, you can trek on from the church to the Gergeti glacier.

A view of Tbilisi from Narikala Fortress. (Vawn Himmelsbach)

To the east is Kakheti, the wine region of Georgia, where it’s possible to tour some of the wineries. And to the west is Batumi on the Black Sea, which is being billed as a resort hot spot, with beaches, clubs and concerts. To get here, book an overnight train or fly from Tbisili. You can also cross the border into Turkey from here.

Danger zones

Avoid travelling around the areas bordering Chechnya, Dagestan and North Ossetia, since there could be landmines and even a risk of kidnapping.

It’s still advisable to avoid the breakaway regions of Abkhazia and South Ossetia, and don’t travel to Svaneti (in the mountains) without a tour guide who has good connections in the area.

Travel tips

There are no direct flights to Tbilisi from Canada; generally the easiest way to get there at the moment is via Munich (Lufthansa) or Vienna (Austrian Airlines). Flights cost anywhere from $1,200 to $1,700 depending on the time of week and season. (If you're part of an air mile program, Tbilisi is usually considered part of Europe, so it's a good time to use those miles.)

Most flights arrive and depart in the middle of the night, so pre-book a hotel for your first night. Hotels in Tbilisi are a bit overpriced, without a lot of good backpacker options. It still caters mainly to businessmen, who have an interest in the region thanks to an oil pipeline that cuts through Georgia from Baku in Azerbaijan to Ceyhan in Turkey (a major street in Tbilisi has even been named after George W. Bush).

Tsminda Sameba Church in the Caucasus Mountains. (Vawn Himmelsbach)

In Tbilisi, there are only a few low-budget hotels/hostels in the $5 to $20 range. Most hotels will cost you anywhere from $40 to $80. Outside the capital, home-stays can cost anywhere from $5 to $20 a night, including all your meals (less if you don't opt for the meals). Most meals in a Georgian restaurant will set you back a few dollars. There are plenty of ATMs in Tbilisi; you can choose between the Georgian lari or the U.S. dollar.

It’s possible to base yourself in Tbilisi and do day-trips to many of these regions, but it’s also more expensive to stay here. Home-stays are becoming a popular option outside of the capital, where you stay with a local family and eat home-cooked meals (some home-stays are posted on the notice board at Prospero’s, an American bookstore in Tbilisi).

In Georgia, this will likely include a lot of drinking, so be prepared. Toasting is an elaborate ritual – and don’t interrupt the tamada, or toastmaster, while he’s making a toast.

You should also be prepared to confront poverty once you leave the capital. Power shortages occur on a regular basis, and don’t expect electricity everywhere you go (conserve your battery if you have a digital camera). One English-speaking guide told me that Georgia is currently experiencing 70 per cent unemployment – and that’s why so many of its younger generation are leaving for countries like Canada (Toronto, for example, has a large Georgian community).

Like many other aspects of Georgian culture, you’ll probably wonder why we don’t see more Georgian restaurants in Canada. You’ll be craving the food long after you leave – from eggplant with walnuts and garlic (badrijani) to poached fish with pomegranate sauce (tevzi) to spicy meat dumplings (khinkali). My first attempt at eating khinkali was with a fork, which didn’t work out very well and I’m sure resulted in a few laughs at the surrounding tables. The trick, I found out later, is to grasp the doughy stem of the dumpling with your fingers and eat it upside-down without spilling the broth inside. And don’t eat the stem, unless you want to cause more laughter.

Probably the best reason to visit Georgia is for the Georgians themselves, who have a gregarious approach to life and are known for their hospitality. I’m already trying to figure out when I can go back.