Article - There and back again – War veterans travel to Korea for the 60th Anniversary of the Korean War Armistice

September 11, 2013

By: Erin Abercrombie and Michelle Ferguson

Panmunjom was a rural community located slightly to the north of the Military Demarcation Line (MDL) that separates the Republic of Korea (ROK) and the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea.

There are no longer farms in the village. And the original inhabitants fled long ago. But the name has stuck through the years – a relic of a war that ravaged the divided country for three years, after the North invaded the South in July 1950.

Now home to the UN Command Military Armistice Commission (UNCMAC), it is the place where, sixty years ago – on 27 July 1953 – the United Nations (UN) and North Korea signed a cease-fire, putting an end to the fighting.

At the end of July, a delegation of 10 Canadian Korean War Veterans, led by the Honourable Julian Fantino, Minister of Veteran Affairs, travelled to the “Truce Village,” as well as to Seoul, to take part in a number of commemorative events. Commander Canadian Joint Operations Command (CJOC), Lieutenant-General Stu Beare, also joined them, along with members of the original 21 allied nations – referred to as the Sending States.

Approximately 27,000 Canadian men and women served during the Korean War, ultimately to help Koreans achieve peace and stability. Another 7,000 Canadians continued to serve as peacekeepers in the area until August 1957. This was a significant contribution considering Canada’s population at the time.

In the spirit of remembrance, the government of Canada and the Republic of Korea organized a variety of events to commemorate, honour and pay tribute to the men and women that fought to uphold freedom and the rule of law 60 years ago.

On 26 July 2013, the day before the anniversary of the armistice, the delegation observed a Korean ash ceremony – a traditional practice using incense – at the National Cemetery in Seoul. The ceremony honours soldiers from the Korean independence movement, the Korean War and the Vietnam War at rest in the cemetery.

The delegation then visited the War Memorial of Korea. Once the headquarters of the Korean Infantry, it has since been transformed into a memorial. Featuring six indoor exhibits and over 13,000 items of war memorabilia and military equipment, it is the largest memorial of its kind in the world.

On either side of the entrance are rows of black marble monuments. On the left hand side, etched into the monuments, are the names of the United Nations Forces soldiers killed in the Korean War. In the Corridor of Honour, a Canadian tablet hangs with the names of the 516 Canadians that gave their lives during the Korean War.

On the first visit to the War Memorial of Korea, a new Canadian monument was unveiled, thanking the 27,000 Canadians that served from 1950 to 1953.

“While the horrors and hardships of the Korean War may seem distant, the legacy of our Canadian Veterans remains strong in the form of a free, democratic and prosperous Korea,” said Minister Fantino. “We will not forget the service and sacrifices of these brave Canadians and, in their honour, our government is proud to present this monument to the Republic of Korea as a lasting symbol of recognition for Canadian Korean War Veterans.”

This sentiment is echoed back home, where Canada proudly remembers the heroes from the Korean War by declaring July 27 as “Korean War Veterans Day”.

The following day, the group returned to the War Memorial for the official 60th Anniversary of the Armistice National Ceremony, presided by ROK President Park. Delegates then attended a second ceremony, this time held by the United Nations Command in Panmunjom.

That evening a “Thank You” banquet was held in honour of the veterans that had joined in the activities.

The day after the anniversary, the Canadian group made their way to one last commemorative event. The United Nations Memorial Cemetery in Korea (UNMCK) is the resting place for many heroic soldiers from 17 different nations that sacrificed their lives for freedom during the Korean War. Three-hundred and seventy-eight Canadian soldiers are buried there.

Veterans from the CAF, along with Minister Fantino and LGen Beare participated in a wreath laying ceremony to honour their comrades. Above the wreaths, the inscription reads, in Korean, English, and French, "We'll never forget you, brave sons of Canada."

In the centre of the Canadian Grave Section at the UNMCK, stands the Monument to Canadian Fallen stands It depicts an unarmed Canadian soldier holding a young Korean girl and guiding a young Korean boy. The monument represents the generations of Koreans who have lived in peace and freedom since the end of the war.

“The soldiers who fought in the Korean War helped build the Korea we see today – a strong, economic power-house that believes in the rights of man,” said LGen Beare. “Today we honour their commitment and thank them for their sacrifice. The Canadian Armed Forces are proud to keep their legacy alive through our numerous peace-keeping missions around the world.”

For Commander CJOC the visit was also a chance to discuss ongoing security efforts in the Republic of Korea with Canada’s UN partners. Since the armistice agreement, the United Nations Command Military Armistice Commission (UNCMAC) has become Canada’s longest UN commitment and is now served by a Canadian officer posted in Seoul.

On 29 July, the UNCMAC hosted a tour of the Joint Security Area (JSA) – the neutral area located on the MDL that separates both countries.

Within the JSA is a series of buildings called Conference Row, where the conference tables straddle the border of both Koreas. This is where all negotiations between UNC and North Korean delegates have taken place since 1953.

After meeting with the Neutral Nations Supervisory Commission (NNSC), a joint Swedish, Swiss and Polish contingent, Commander CJOC had the opportunity to further visit the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ).

From Observation Point Dora, situated on top of Dorasan (Mount Dora), LGen Beare was able to observe the North Korean “Peace Village” of Kijong-dong – one of the two villages allowed to remain in the four-kilometre-wide DMZ.

 From there he could also spot the Dorasan railway station, designed to one day connect the peninsula through travel and trade.