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Saint John

Bright rays of sunshine stream in obliquely through rounded windows high above the market stalls. The sharp smell of aged cheddar mixes with the sweet fragrance of homemade pastries and the briny aroma of fresh seafood straight from the wharf. As battered halibut and hand-cut fries sizzle in metal baskets, you take note of the unusual, but elegant, design of the ceiling.

The affable cook tells you with a chuckle that they built the Old City Market like an inverted boat because the seafaring residents of this city just didn't know how to build anything else. You smile at this local myth, but the finely hewn beams and dovetailed joints tell you they knew exactly what they were doing.

Some things change fast in Saint John. The tide rises 28 feet in 12 hours. The river flows two different directions in the same day. But the Market bell still rings twice a day and the locals haven't lost their love of the sea, nor their down-to-earth charm.

 
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